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If there were one artery aliment I could booty with me to a arid island, it would accept to be blimp mussels. I bethink the aboriginal time I visited Istanbul in the mid 1970s, I backward at the Pera Palace, still in its achromatic glory, spending my mornings in mosques and museums and my afternoons and aboriginal evenings in the bazaars.
I was on a mission to acquisition the ultimate blimp mussels. I had never eaten them afore and had collapsed in adulation with this busy airiness that was awash so cheaply on the artery aback it could accept been on the card of a Michelin-starred restaurant.
My auberge was aloof bottomward the alley from Çiçek Passajı (Flower Passage), a admirable baby bazaar arch into a bewilderment of attenuated streets abounding of absorbing restaurants. Every afternoon, I absolved up to the bazaar to sample blimp mussels. At that time, there were abounding stalls affairs them, while today alone one remains. I went from one bell-ringer to the next, tasting the mussels. If they were good, I would linger, gesturing to the bell-ringer to accord me one more, again addition and addition until I had eaten bisected a dozen added mussels. Fortunately the aftermost actual stuffed-mussels bell-ringer is one of the best in town.
It is not that accessible to acquisition mussels that are ample abundant for stuffing. If you can’t acquisition any, artlessly change the basin to a pilaf by advancing 2–3 times the bulk of rice capacity and affable it completely. Beef the mussels alone and align them, on the bisected shell, on top of the adapted rice.
Serves 4extra-virgin olive oil 4 tbsppine basics 1 tbsponions 2 small, bald and cautiously choppedpaella rice 110g, or added white short-grain rice (bomba, Calasparra or Egyptian), blood-soaked in balmy waterraisins 1 tbsptomato adhesive 1½ tbspground biscuit ¼ tspground allspice ¼ tsppaprika ¼ tspcayenne pepper a pinchground cloves a pinchsea saltfinely arena atramentous peppermussels about 40 medium-to-large, in their shellsflat-leaf parsley 1 tbsp, choppeddill 1 tbsp, mincedlemon wedges to serve
Put the olive oil, ache basics and onions in a bucket and sauté, active regularly, until agilely golden. Cesspool the rice and add to the pan. Add the raisins, amazon adhesive and spices, and some alkali and pepper, again cascade in aloof abundant baptize to awning – about 250ml. Accompany to the boil, abate the calefaction to low and simmer, covered with a lid, for 8-10 account or until the baptize is captivated and the rice almost done. Booty off the heat, blanket the lid in a apple-pie tea anhydrate and abode aback over the pan afore ambience it abreast to air-conditioned down.
Preparing the mussels is a diffuse and rather difficult process, so acquiesce time and be patient. Aboriginal cull off and abandon the beards, if there are any, and bathe the mussels beneath algid baptize – don’t let them absorb or they will die. Lay one mollusk on a tea anhydrate on your assignment apparent and admit the tip of a baby aciculate knife in amid the two shells at the slanted end. Slide the knife bottomward and all about the carapace until you cut into the beef – the mollusk will accessible calmly with the two behindhand actual attached. Adapt the blow of the mussels in the aforementioned way. Booty your time and don’t blitz this allotment of the alertness or you will either breach the shells or aching yourself with the knife.
Once you accept opened all the mussels, activity the beginning herbs into the rice and ample anniversary mollusk with a teaspoon or added of the rice mixture, depending on how ample it is. Abutting both behindhand of the carapace together, clean abroad any rice grains afraid to the alfresco and align in 2-3 layers in the top allotment of a steamer. Weigh bottomward the abounding mussels with a basin and beef for 20-25 minutes. Abolish the steamer area and let the mussels cool. Serve at allowance temperature with the auto wedges.From Levant by Anissa Helou (Harper Collins, £20)
This is a compound of my father, who has a baby falafel boutique in the apple of Kfar Dlekos in arctic Lebanon.
Serves 6dried chickpeas 1kgpepper 1 tspsalt ½ tspfalafel pepper aroma 2 tbsp (see below)bicarbonate of soda ½ tspplain white abrade 2 tbspvegetable oil about 100ml
For the falafel pepper mixblack pepper, allspice, coriander, cumin and absurd mix calm the aforementioned bulk of these arena spices
Put the chickpeas in a ample basin and add abundant algid baptize to awning them by at atomic 5cm. Leave to absorb overnight.
Place the drained chickpeas into a aliment processor. Add the alkali and pepper, and the falafel pepper mix.
Process the chickpeas until they accept burst bottomward and formed a mush, but not a puree. If it’s too thick, add a bit of baptize to accomplish it a bit runnier.
Next add the bicarbonate of soda and a little of the flour. Pulse, and boring add the abrade till the chef is no best adhesive and can be calmly shaped into a brawl – like a bendable aliment dough.
Transfer the chef from the aliment processor and into a bowl. Awning the basin and air-condition for a brace of hours.
After a brace of hours, abolish the chickpeas from the fridge and alpha basic the falafels. Roll the chickpeas into balls, about the admeasurement of ping pong balls, abrade the assurance a bit so they chef analogously aback fried.
Heat a few inches of oil in a abysmal frying pan. Fry the falafels in batches, for a few account on anniversary side. Aback they are aureate brown, abolish from the pan and cesspool on paper.
Serve the falafels in Arabic aliment or pitta bread, with salad, tahini and pickled vegetables.Georgina Al Bayeh is a chef at Tawlet in Lebanon; soukeltayeb.com/tawlet
This ambrosia has become our signature dish. It is absolutely complex, with a few altered components, and is absolutely aggressive for home alertness – not because the stages are difficult, but because there are a few of them. You can use a all-encompassing bazaar feta, but for a accomplishment that is bland and salty, buy one of the tinned bland fetas awash in Middle Eastern delis.
Kadaif is the best amazing pastry; it is fabricated out of tiny attenuate noodles that you broil with adulate and sugar. The best affair to do is to buy it banal in a Middle Eastern grocery store; use what you charge for this compound and accumulate the blow in the freezer for abutting time. However, if you can’t acquisition kadaif, use filo pastry and atom it as cautiously as you can with a knife or a brace of scissors.
The advantage of this basin is that anniversary allotment can be fabricated in beforehand and accumulated aloof afore you are activity to eat – aloof as we do at Honey & Co. So it is acceptable for stress-free absorbing (although not so abundant for stress-free preparation). You could artlessly accomplish the amazon chrism and abode it in a ample bowl, admixture with some basics and aqueous with honey; not absolutely the same, but still tasty.
Makes a acceptable 4 portionsFor the kadaif basemelted adulate 25gkadaif pastry 50g (or disconnected filo)caster amoroso 1 tbsp
For the amazon creamfull-fat chrism cheese 160g (we use Philadelphia)extra blubbery bifold chrism 160mlicing amoroso 40ghoney 40g of your best (a chapped one works best, in my opinion)feta 50g, bland and creamyvanilla pod seeds from ½ (or 1 tsp boilerplate essence)
For the honey syruphoney 50mlwater 50ml
For the garnishfresh oregano or marjoram leaves a fewwhole broiled almonds a handful, almost choppedsome mellow-flavoured melancholia bake-apple white peaches or blueberries are best (raspberries or apricots are additionally good)
Preheat the oven to 180C/gas mark 4.
Mix the broiled adulate with the pastry and amoroso in a bowl. Fluff the pastry by affairs it and alleviation the shreds with your easily till it gets an alike blanket of amoroso and butter. Divide into four according amounts, affairs anniversary array of pastry out of the accumulation like a little brawl of yarn. Abode these on a baking tray lined with block paper. They should resemble four collapsed birds’ nests, anniversary about the admeasurement of a drinks coaster.
Bake for about 12-15 account or until golden. Acquiesce to air-conditioned and accumulate in an closed alembic until accessible to serve. The pastry nests will accumulate for 2-3 days, so you can adapt them able-bodied in advance.
Place all the amazon chrism capacity in a ample basin and amalgamate with a spatula or a big spoon, application annular folding motions until the admixture thickens and starts to authority the swirls. Don’t use a whisk: it’s basic not to add air to the admixture as the abstruse is in the texture. Check that it is abundantly blubbery by blasting some assimilate a beanery and axis it upside-down: it should break area it is. If it is still too soft, mix it some more. (If you are accretion the quantities in this compound to augment lots of people, I beforehand application a paddle on a mixer for this, but you’ll charge to watch it like a militarist so it doesn’t about-face into butter.) You can adapt the amazon chrism in beforehand (up to 48 hours afore serving) and accumulate it covered in the fridge until it is time to accumulate the dessert.
Put the honey and baptize for the abstract in a baby pan and abscess calm for 1 minute, bribery off any chrism or algae that appear to the top. Abolish from the hob and leave to cool, again abundance covered in the fridge until you are accessible to serve.
When you appear to accumulate the dessert, abode a pastry backup on anniversary basin and top with a acceptable beat of the amazon mix. Sprinkle over the assemble leaves and chopped nuts, add a few blueberries or a brace of slices of peach, and dribble a tablespoon of the honey abstract over everything. If you appetite to be super-luxurious, dribble with some raw honey as well.From Honey & Co: Aliment from the Middle East by Sarit Packer and Itamar Srulovich (Hodder & Stoughton, £25)
Even if you are a hopeless chef like I (Itamar) am, you charge to accept one or two analgesic desserts in your repertoire. This one is mine. I begin the amber cookie compound in a annual and followed it religiously. I was actual afflicted with the results, Sarit beneath so. She went on to change the compound absolutely and add the tahini cream. No matter. These are acceptable abundant (and affluent enough) to serve as ambrosia on their own and are asleep accessible to make. Do not be tempted to over-bake them; their abundance lies in their adhesive centre.
Makes 7 sandwiches (or 14 cookies)For the doughunsalted adulate 40g70% aphotic amber 250geggs 2light amber bendable amoroso 150gcocoa crumb 20g70% aphotic amber 50g, chopped
For the fillingtahini adhesive 40gfull fat chrism cheese 50gdouble chrism 50g/mlicing amoroso 25g
Preheat the oven to 200C/gas mark 6 and band two trays with baking parchment. Melt the adulate and amber calm in the bake or over a bifold steamer.
Whisk the eggs and amoroso to a absolutely fluffy, white, ashen sabayon. Bend the broiled amber admixture into the sabayon. Add the amber crumb and amber chunks and bend to combine.
Use a brim bag or two spoons to accomplish about 14 abundance of cookie chef (each about 30-35g) on the baking trays.
Allow affluence of amplitude (at atomic 5cm) amid anniversary one as they advance absolutely a bit during baking.
Bake for 9 account until they accept formed a band but are still absolutely soft. Abolish from the oven and acquiesce to air-conditioned absolutely on the tray afore filling.
Combine all the bushing capacity in a mixer with a paddle attachment, alive the admixture at a absolutely apathetic acceleration until smooth, buttery and able to authority its shape. Alternatively, you could barrel the capacity calm by hand, but be actual accurate not to over-whisk.
Pair the accolade and cast them base-upwards. Abode a dosage of bushing in the centre of bisected the chaotic cookies, again use the added cookie in anniversary brace to abutting the sandwich, acute agilely until the bushing alcove the edges. You can eat these beeline abroad or accumulate them in the fridge for a few days, if you can abide for that long.From Honey & Co: The Baking Book by Sarit Packer and Itamar Srulovich (Hodder & Stoughton, £25)
The colour of this ice chrism will alter according to the blazon of figs you are using. Any blazon is acceptable as continued as the figs are accomplished and sweet. You can alter endlessly on this compound by replacing the figs with any added blazon of bake-apple such as mulberry, mango, strawberry, annoying pear or banana, and so on. Use the weight accustomed beneath as a guideline for the bulk of bake-apple lurid you will need.
Serves 4organic milk 300mlfresh accomplished figs 500g, peeledcreme fraiche 300mlgolden alembic amoroso 175g
Put the milk in a saucepan, abode over a average calefaction and accompany to the boil. Watch it as it is about to abscess so that it does not abscess over, again booty off the calefaction and leave to cool. (You can air-conditioned it bound by putting the pan in a basin of algid water.)
Put the bald figs in a blender and process, authoritative abiding you do not liquidise them too abundant – there should be baby chunks of fig in the ice cream.
Transfer the pureed figs into a bond bowl, ache the cooled milk over them and add the chrism and sugar. Activity until the amoroso has broiled and the chrism is absolutely incorporated. Again put the basin in the freezer and barrel every hour or so, for 6-8 hours or until the ice chrism has accomplished the adapted consistency; or if you are application an ice-cream maker, chase the manufacturer’s instructions.Recipe from Lebanese Cuisine by Anissa Helou (Grub Street, £12.99)
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