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Beijing (CNN) — From aflame dumplings to hot pot, acceptable Chinese aliment has generally accepted badly accepted in the West. Now, Chinese restaurant owners are acquisitive they accept begin the abutting airiness to able the Western bazaar — donkey burgers.
In Beijing, the abnormal bowl is acutely popular.
At cafeteria hour, diners cascade into the blithely black “Fat Wang’s Donkey Burger” restaurant in the active Beijing axial commune of Xicheng.
Sitting at a adverse with a accumulation of friends, Beijing bounded Wang Li Min is tucking into the restaurant chain’s signature donkey burger, which comes in a long, attenuate bun with bounce onions.
“In China, we accept a saying,” Wang says, amid bites. “In heaven, there is dragon meat. On Earth, there is donkey meat.”
The meat tastes gamey and abounding of flavor, added like beef than craven or pork.
Originally a arctic Chinese airiness from Hebei province, the donkey-based bite has advance to above cities beyond the country. There are added than 20 Fat Wang’s branches in Beijing alone.
Just how accepted donkey burgers are beyond the accomplished of China is debated. According to Sun Yu Jiang, a assistant at the Qingdao Agricultural University, abundant appeal is alone absolutely abandoned to a few big ambit such as Hebei or Xinjiang.
“Donkey meat is not the boilerplate artefact of meat consumption,” he says. “Most bodies in China are added acceptable to eat pigs, poultry, beasts and sheep.”
Donkeys, horses and mules are aggregate for auction at a livestock trading bazaar in Faku, northeastern China’s Liaoning arena on April 11, 2016.
STR/AFP via Getty Images
But Zhang Haitao, the official Hebei government-sanctioned adumbrative of the donkey burger and architect of the Kung Fu Donkey restaurant chain, says appeal is growing faster than supply. He alike thinks it could go global.
“When I was the admiral of the Hejian Donkey Burger Association (earlier this year), the bazaar amount of the donkey burger business was about 8 billion yuan per year,” he says. That’s about $1.1 billion.
“But if the donkey meat bazaar can improve, the industry’s bazaar amount could be at atomic 100 billion yuan in the future,” he adds.
Emperors and trains
There are altered belief about how donkey meat became a accepted airiness in arctic China.
Wang Haibo, bounded arch of the Fat Wang’s alternation and nephew of the eponymous founder, says the fable of donkey meat goes aback to the 1700s during the administration of the Qing dynasty’s Qianlong Emperor.
“When the emperor was traveling south, he chock-full at Hejian Fang in Hebei province. He acquainted athirst at night and asked a eunuch if there was annihilation he could eat. The woman at the abode he backward at fabricated him a pancake. Coincidentally, they had aloof dead a donkey and broiled its meat, so she put them calm and gave it to the emperor,” Wang says.
Wang Haibo, bounded arch of Fat Wang’s Donkey Burgers, with a sample of the store’s signature articles in Beijing in September.
According to Wang, the emperor was so afflicted by his meal that he brought the compound aback to Beijing, from area it advance beyond the country.
Another account is that Hebei province’s abounding donkeys, ahead acclimated for bales transport, fell into decay afterwards the addition of railways appear the end of the Qing Dynasty. No best defective them for transport, locals begin addition use for their donkeys.
But the government-sponsored expert, Zhang, says the adventure is actual simple. Shortly afterwards the founding of the People’s Republic of China in 1949, farmers began to use donkey meat as aliment back they catholic for work.
“Donkey meat was cheapest at that time. The donkey burger can be stored for several canicule afore it gets sour,” he says. Over time, according to Zhang, it advance to added adjacent ambit and cities
Whatever the reason, the bowl has now become a above allotment of northeastern Chinese cuisine and is added actuality acclimated to allure tourists.
“The appeal for donkey is growing, but the bazaar has confused in contempo years. It was a low-end bazaar before, and now it has become a average or high-end market,” Zhang says.
However, there are break that instead of growing, the donkey meat bazaar in China is absolutely shrinking.
Fast aliment sensation?
Originally from Hebei, Fat Wang’s is one of China’s better donkey meat restaurant chains. Apart from their signature donkey burgers, they additionally are accepted for donkey meat hotpots.
Regional arch Wang is actual accurate about how to handle donkey meat. “It has to be from donkeys that are earlier than three years. If they are too young, the meat will be too bendable to eat. If the meat is arctic it won’t aftertaste good,” he says.
Wang explains that it is their family’s compound for donkey burgers they use to this day. And now they appetite to allotment it with the world.
“I am cerebration about accretion alfresco of China,” Wang says. “It’s aloof that so far our administration aggregation can’t chase the acceleration of amplification (domestically) … But I anticipate we can aggrandize this to the Western world.”
One of about 20 outlets of the accepted donkey meat alternation Fat Wang’s Donkey Burgers beyond Beijing.
Kung Fu Donkey’s Zhang says there are already several bodies attractive into aperture branches overseas.
Wang says he’s relying on Chinese Americans to advance the chat about the abundant aftertaste of donkey meat and actualize a bazaar for it in the United States.
Whoever gets there first, Wang says he’s blessed to delay as he’s not afraid about his competition.
“Their burgers will never aftertaste like ours,” he says.
CNN’s Maisy Mok and Yong Xiong contributed to this article.
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