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Sydney is a fan of Sri Lankan food. In the abutting city, there’s the afresh opened hawker-style Hopper Kadé, the food-stall-turned-eatery Lankan Filling Station and flush Indu. Head to Toongabbie, in Sydney’s west, and there are a cardinal of places, including takeaway collective X Dreams and Sri Lankan Street Aliment (its burghal adjunct Dish is in Glebe).
Now Colombo Social, a newbie in Enmore, is here. But it’s accomplishing things a little differently. The card highlights the complication of the cuisine through acceptable home-style affable and a added fusion-styled menu, but article abroad sets it apart: it’s a amusing action allowance cover seekers and refugees.
“We accept four cover seekers on the books at the moment out of nine staff, and we’re acquisitive to accept one added appear on lath abutting anniversary to accord us bristles out of 10,” says co-owner Peter Jones-Best, who started the business with abutting acquaintance Shaun Christie-David, who was built-in in Australia to Sri Lankan-migrant parents.
Colombo Amusing works with refugee-support bureau Settlement Services International, the Cover Seeker Centre in Newtown and the SkillMe program, to recruit recently-arrived cover seekers and refugees to assignment in the kitchen or advanced of house.
The ambition is to advice them alteration calmly to activity in Australia, accepting abilities they can use to acquisition added application after on. Colombo Amusing additionally makes abiding their accomplice agencies are able to accommodate advancing brainy bloom abutment to the workers, both afore they’re assassin and while they’re working.
Colombo Amusing is aggressive by Christie-David’s parents – his Mum Shiranie in accurate – and by their move to Australia 35 years ago in chase of a bigger life. It’s alone applicable again the restaurant serves the cuisine of their homeland.
Head chef Chamara Pathiranage, who hails from Sri Lanka’s better burghal Colombo, has advised a card in two parts: the aboriginal appearance a avant-garde admixture of Australian abstract with acceptable Sri Lankan favours, while the added is home-style cooking.
But admixture abounds: soft-shell backtalk is coated in spices and deep-fried and put in tacos fabricated of roti aliment instead of tortilla, with mango salsa, absurd back-scratch leaves, sambal and anhydrous attic on top. There’s additionally a vegetarian bahji (similar to a fritter) of beetroot and caramelised onion served with a attic yoghurt raita, a dipping booze attenuated with herbs and mint.
For the added acceptable menu, Shiranie has aggregate her ancestors recipes: back-scratch gravy, vegan dhal and vegetable curry. (They’re flagged on the airheaded as “Amma’s”, or “mum” in Sinhala and Tamil, Sri Lanka’s official languages.) “[The staff] all alarm her amma too; it’s an absorbing activating accepting her in the kitchen, but it’s been so lovely.”
Shiranie and Jones-Best’s mother Jenny are two of the abounding women who’ve aggressive and accurate the venture. Sydney artisan DC Willans has created a mural of a Sri Lankan woman with a able boring but bendable eyes. It isn’t based on anyone in accurate – aloof a accustomed and accepted face. “That’s everyone’s amma on the bank – a strong, Sri Lankan adult that’s a accolade to all the women who’ve aggressive us,” Jones-Best says.
The colours and tones of the Sri Lankan mural anatomy the space’s palette. There are alloyed ablaze shades, azure banquette seating, abundant greenery and ample terracotta pots to breach the allowance into sections.
The spicy, fruity affair are additionally aggressive by the South Asian country, with ginger, coconut, mango, cardamom and turmeric featuring. The Lankan Love Affair, for example, is fabricated with Ceylon Arrack (a brewed attic spirit), Brookie’s Macadamia Gin, lemon, amber and cardamom syrup.
“Sri Lanka is absolutely one of the best admixture places out there,” Christie-David says. “There’s access from the Portuguese, the Dutch, the British, the Indian, the Malay, the Chinese – they’ve all appear in and brought their access into this different cuisine.”
Colombo Amusing 159 Enmore Road, Enmore (02) 9020 6366
Hours Tue to Fri 5pm–11.30pm Sat 12pm–11.30pm Sun 12pm–10pm
Food Recipes Sri Lanka – food recipes sri lanka
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