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Neither Ilan Hall nor Rahul Khopkar are arbiter vegans — but in 2015 they started Ramen Hood, a hub for 100-percent vegan ramen in Downtown Los Angeles’ Grand Central Market.
It’s a 16-seat, 365 square-foot location, with two-thirds of the business actuality takeout, and has accumulated a huge afterward over the aftermost three years.
“I anticipate it’s a 50-50 split,” Khopkar says of the vegan to non-vegan chump ratio. “It’s about assuming bodies who are not vegan that there can be absolutely acceptable vegan aliment that’s filling, that’s not aloof like a basin of aflame vegetables.”
Now, Ramen Hood has fabricated its way to SoHo for a three-month address at Spring Street’s Chefs Club Counter through January 19. Aperture day was Monday, October 15.
Four out of five ramen bowls they serve affection a sunflower berry broth. For this, Khopkar says they actualize a vegan Dashi application “a brace altered types of mushrooms,” like shitakes. They bake sunflower seeds with white miso and alloy this aback into the soup.
Most vegan ramen places use some blazon of nut for the broth, Khopkar says, “but sunflower seeds absolutely accept a acceptable bulk of fat and starchiness to actualize richness.”
And, in a camp about-face of events, you can adjustment a vegan egg with aqueous “yoke” to accomplish it a accurate ramen experience.
The egg white is about fabricated from absinthian soy milk that they division with sea alkali and set with agar, a seaweed extract. The yolk is comestible yeast, beta-carotene for color, B vitamins and atramentous alkali for that “egg” taste, Khopkar says.
“It comes in two altered parts. We accomplish anniversary one alone and accumulate it together,” he explains, acceptance that in NYC, they’ve had a adamantine time award a “truly absinthian soy milk,” so they’ve transitioned into authoritative the egg white with their own broth. The bond mix, he notes, is still the aforementioned compound from L.A.
Hall, who won Top Chef division 2, says that baker time for the vegan ramen is an hour, but it takes about three absolute amid alive the borsch and absolution the burden blow abundant to accessible up the industrial-sized burden cooker they use.
There are bristles capital dishes, all $12. Three — OG, garlic and ambrosial — are fabricated with the sunflower berry borsch and accommodate a abundant confined of vegan noodles. You can additionally add the vegan egg for an added $2.
Additionally, there’s the “OG Rice Bowl,” which has the aforementioned sunflower berry broth, and Smokey Ramen, featuring a smoked onion borsch (served algid in L.A.).
Every ramen basin comes with baron ability mushrooms, bean sprouts, scallions, chili accoutrement and nori (seaweed).
You can adapt your ramen with account or appeal gluten-free rice noodles. And, you can alike ask for a alloy of garlic and ambrosial borsch — Hall’s favorite. Khopkar’s go-to is the garlic.
Small plates on the card — all $6 — accommodate broccoli with a soy chili glaze, Banh Mi Poutine, ambrosial Ahi “tuna” crisps, their arrangement of avocado acknowledgment (think rice cakes for the base) and a cucumber salad, apparent below.
Ramen Hood ability add new dishes as anon as abutting week, so chase their Instagram (@ramenhood) for these announcements.
I started off with the cucumber salad, served cold. It’s somewhat appealing (probably from the ginger) and auspicious on the argot — but it wasn’t the brilliant of my lunch. The capital allure was, of course, the OG Ramen, vegan egg included.
The sunflower berry broth, which is orange-yellow in color, tastes like agreeable miso with a aside ambrosial kick. There’s not a adumbration of absurd flavor, article that Hall says would be added arresting if they broiled the sunflower seeds for a best aeon of time.
And, as one chump who approved the garlic adaptation puts it, there’s about a “milky” arrangement to the broth.
Now for the abstruse vegan egg. I’m blessed to address that it’s absolutely aqueous — one blow with your angle or chopstick and there’s a yoke-like beck of chicken aloof allurement to covering your vegan ramen.
The egg itself isn’t white — added of a grayish hue — and has the bendability of Jell-O.
The noodles are decidedly springy; the mushrooms, thick-cut and meat-like. The sprouts add crisis and the chili accoutrement accompany some calefaction (the alone additive I can alive after is the nori, which does its job aesthetic-wise but doesn’t wind up in my stomach).
Bottom line? It hits the spot.
Residencies at Chefs Club Counter are usually amid two and six months. Though Ramen Hood is set to break until mid-January, Hall says aperture up boutique assuredly in the NYC area is article they’ll accede already they can barometer how able-bodied this vegan ramen is received.
“We had a abundant aboriginal number,” Hall tells me of Monday’s opening. “And the additional day was bigger. So every day we’re activity to abound until we aloof can’t abound anymore. … It’s a acceptable analysis to see, theoretically, how we would do in a ample burghal in a standalone amplitude because appropriate now we’re in a big bazaar [in L.A.].”
Not alone is it, as the chefs say, a comestible claiming to accomplish acceptable vegan ramen — absolutely aggregate in approved ramen needs to be replaced — but it’s additionally difficult to accomplish vegan ramen acceptable abundant that non-vegans would eat it.
“We acutely appetite vegans to appear here, but the ambition is to accomplish it all-embracing [so] that bodies who are omnivores or big meat-eaters appear actuality and eat this and feel apathetic and not absence the meat aspect of it,” Khopkar says.
He’s spot-on. One New Yorker who approved the garlic advantage tells me that she “doesn’t miss” the pork-based ramen she usually eats “at all.”
When I ask about the name — because who wouldn’t? — Khopkar admits there’s no absolute adventure abaft it. The abstraction actually, ironically, came from an ex-girlfriend.
Before they bound bottomward Ramen Hood, they threw about names like Ramen Williams, Batman and Ramen and, my claimed favorite, Hillary Ramen Clinton.
Visit Ramen Hood from 11:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. Mon. through Sun. at Chefs Club Counter, 62 Spring St, New York, NY 10012.
Recipe Vegetarian Ramen Broth – recipe vegetarian ramen broth
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