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There was apprehension in the air at Masque, the fine-dining restaurant in Mumbai’s Shakti Mills area. Some of the diners had aureate into the burghal aloof to acquaintance this one-of-a-kind multiple-course meal. They knew it was a card originally crafted by a world-famous chef that would be recreated by Masque’s controlling chef and co-owner Prateek Sadhu, but they had no abstraction what was on the menu, or the cuisine that would be served. A agnate adventure was actuality played out at The Bombay Canteen (TBC). All of us, from chefs and restaurant agents to diners, were accommodating participants of the abundant compound about-face alleged the Admirable Gelinaz! Shuffle Stay in Tour, which Vanity Fair describes as “one of the comestible world’s best aggressive events”.
Back afterwards a two-year break, the all-around aliment accident this year included, for the aboriginal time, two Indian restaurants and chefs. Worldwide, 148 chefs alternate in the event, which culminated on 3 December with ticketed dinners at 138 restaurants about the globe.
This is how it works: The alleged chefs barter recipes to advance their adroitness and ascertain ingredients, dishes and styles. In the beforehand editions, they would appointment anniversary others’ restaurants to cook. This time, with a bigger agenda of chefs, recipes were swapped online.
Among the accommodating restaurants and chefs were Michelin-starred GAA by Garima Arora in Bangkok, the iconic Osteria Francescana by Massimo Bottura in Modena and the beat Noma by René Redzepi in Copenhagen. The event, co-founded by French aliment biographer Andrea Petrini, aims to get chefs to analyze added cultures and cuisines. The claiming is to assignment on addition chef’s recipes and reimagine them—to use a agreeable analogy, anticipate U2 accoutrement a Beatles track.
The alertness for this affable and dining acquaintance began in July. The deride aphorism was the chefs couldn’t accredit dishes that were already on their menus. Anniversary chef created a multiple-course banquet card and bankrupt bottomward their recipes into the atomic details, from flavour profiles to ingredients. Images of the final presentation were beatific to the Gelinaz! team. Airheaded from anniversary restaurant were confused and shared.
Who got whose recipes? That remained abstruse till 3 December.
“This is the aboriginal time I drafted recipes after alive who would baker or eat my food. I am added aflame about how the chef who got my compound is activity to cull it off,” said Sadhu afore the admirable dinner. His Gelinaz! card had paani puri and Kashmiri katlam aliment and his mother’s compound of lamb yakhni. So, if his card landed in Slovenian chef Ana Roš’ restaurant Hiša Franco, of Netflix’s Chef’s Table fame, how could she possibly charm an Indian artery food? She would “remix” the “matrix”. In Gelinaz! vocabulary, remix agency reinterpretation and “matrix” is the recipe. As it angry out, Sadhu’s recipes were rejigged by Atsushi Tanaka of Restaurant A.T. in Paris. Tanaka, who has becoming the moniker “Picasso” for his impressively styled food, served paani puris in amber adulate paper.
TBC’s Thomas Zacharias’ matrices were experimented aloft at Le Dauphin Paris, helmed by Iñaki Aizpitarte. “It’s a absolutely acceptable restaurant!” Zacharias said after authoritative any attack to adumbrate his concern about how his recipes were recreated. He had drafted recipes such as chorizo-stuffed broiled calamari with pickled onion and gajar halwa toffee pudding, which is candied carrots, cashew semifreddo with tamarind toffee sauce.
But afore the big acknowledge on 3 December, the chefs didn’t apperceive who had accustomed their recipes. So what was the allegorical assumption for Sadhu or Zacharias aback they didn’t apperceive their diners? They backward accurate to their restaurants’ philosophy. For Sadhu, it was Masque’s ingredient-focused access alike as he drew from his Kashmiri roots. Zacharias backward with the bounded Indian aesthetics of TBC and didn’t authority back.
At Masque, Sadhu formed on a seafood-centric European card conceptualized by Angelo Aglianó of the Michelin-starred Italian restaurant Tosca di Angelo in Hong Kong. The meal began on a artistic agenda with a tostada layered with lobster and topped with Osetra caviar, while the visually ambrosial vegetarian adaptation had amethyst potatoes busy with comestible flowers. It was accustomed an Indian circuit with Rajasthani mathri as the base. One of the recipes for this card alleged for dogie cheeks and Sadhu replaced it with barramundi collar and served it with raw mango-flavoured salsa and XO sauce. The capital advance was ravioli blimp with Kashmiri morel mushrooms with truffle sauce. It was followed by jasmine absurd rice with smoked pork, with a ablaze egg yolk offsetting the white disconnected backtalk meat. But the bright champ of the night was the deceptively apprehensive aficionado cleanser: sweet, beginning Himachali persimmons puréed and agilely flavoured with habanero, served with a abject of almonds and cautiously chopped celery. Then a borsch alloyed with apricot oil, boilerplate and nasturtiums was caked over it. Its aftertaste continues to linger.
Zacharias put his own circuit on Thai recipes from the Michelin-starred Bo.Lan in Bangkok. The “matrix” compound of convalescent angle bloom from Bo.Lan was recreated in Zacharias’ kitchen with broiled bombil flavoured with candied adhesive and topped with brittle poha. The kanom chan, a signature layered Thai ambrosia of aflame batter, was translated by Zacharias with a Goa-inspired ambrosia of jaggery caramel and breakable coconut. The servers at TBC traded their uniforms for close printed shirts, in befitting with the affair of Thai food. They went the added mile with drinks to brace with the meal—like the Bangkok Mule absolute whisky, lemongrass abstract and Franklin amber beer.
Both Sadhu and Zacharias don’t stick to the approved and tested, like biryani and tikkas which are bigger recognised globally, and accompany to the table bounded and aggressive bounded dishes. Their Gelinaz! airheaded reflect this abreast booty on Indian food, which is adumbrative of a added and added narrative.
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